“Is white water rafting really the only way to reach this lodge?” I asked.”Not exactly, but it’s definitely the best way” says Tito our guide, as I have a helmet firmly placed on my head and strapped into a life jacket so tightly I thought I might go down the river in two halves.It was a beautiful morning with Costa Rica looking its most tropical. Rich jungle colours of varying shades of green met sparkling clear water as the river meandered through the canyon. Vultures flew over head against a bright blue sky.
We piled into our raft and paddled gently on almost still waters as we were given our safety briefing and practiced our moves on the guide’s instructions. “Paddle left! Paddle, paddle! Paddle right – Get Down!” Once satisfied that our reactions were immediate enough, we settled down to enjoy the exotic scenery with a few butterflies (not the flying kind) churning around as we thought of the impending rapids.Soon enough we were gripping our oars for the rapids ahead and tried our very best to follow shouted instructions. We shrieked and laughed as great sheets of water enveloped us on the first set of rapids. By the third set we were getting quite blasé about our technique while flat stretches of water allowed us moments of calm to admire the surrounding jungle.
Soaking wet, but euphoric, we arrived at Pacuare Lodge. The beautiful open fronted structure of the main house is located on the banks of the river with a lovely deck overlooking the water. Our guides miraculously transformed from adrenaline junkies into sophisticated hotel staff and later at dinner to skilful waiters.
The villas were superbly appointed with outdoor showers, hammocks, huge king beds and beautifully crafted furniture – all from the local area. By the time I fell into bed listening to the rush of the water, and after a delicious three course supper with fine wine from a well stocked cellar, I knew Pacuare Lodge had got it spot on, and yes, Tito was right, arriving by river was the best way.
Steppes Travel specialise in holidays to Costa Rica, China holidays and South Africa safari.
